a) Cockpit interior is extremely simple; I expected more from a
model of this scale [and price]. Fortunately for us, Eduard makes up for
the kit's simplicity with the PE set. But first, don't forget to modify
the floor's shape, including the front landing gear bay - the PE parts
lower the floor, so it's impossible to fit the fuselage together without
the prior adjustment. The manual isn't very precise about the cockpit's
coloring details; try to obtain additional publications or search online.
I used ethanol based Agama paints.
b) Fuselage is divided horizontally, comprises two parts, the
wings, plus a separate components for the engine intake channels. Before
assembling the fuselage you need to fit in the interior and fill the
ejector pin marks inside the bays, which needs sanding and PE parts
upgrade. You can improve the intakes with the metal parts both from the
kit and from the detail set; Eduard's bottom louver look more realistic
than the kit's version, but they also require more skill and patience.
When I tried to fit the intakes with the fuselage, a minor problem
occurred - the pastic components were wraped. The intake channel opening
didn't match the fuselage, so I had to do a lot of filling, sanding and
panel lines rescribing; that was particularly difficult between the
engines. After fitting the intakes, you have to cut off a portion of
plastic in the landing gear bay and clean it up.
c) Control surfaces are casted individually, with the exception of
ailerons. I first bonded the slats, and placed them on a level board with
some weight on the top. The slats are long and narrow, ideal for getting
warped because of glue reaction. I cut openings above the base of vertical
stabilizers, which were originally packed and poorly modeled. It didn't
d) Armament is abundant; if you want to build a fully equipped model,
you need to open the pre-pressed pylon openings on the wings and engines,
before gluing the fuselage together.
e) Landing gears are more complex, especially the main gears' joint
with the fuselage requires accuracy in gluing. The assembly of front
landing gear leg is also difficult; together with the PE parts, it turns
into a small puzzle. The wheels are separate disks, which I decorated with
rubber tires. There was a problem with visible ejection marks, which I
erased by sanding; that also gave the tires their used look.
f) Camouflage consists of three hues of grey and one blue-grey color.
At first, I was going to use the authentic acrylic paints from the Bilek
company, but after making a trial test, I discarded the idea. These paints
create a thick layer and a very rough surface, which would look bad on such
a big model. Finally, I chose similar color tones from ModelMaster. Due to
a lack of space between the vertical stabilizers, I sprayed the model
without them and glued them on later; the same with the vertical
stabilizers, because of the shark silhouette decal. I used ethanol based
Agama paints for the engine metals and for the radio covers [white radar
cover in the front and green covers for the vertical stabilizers]; the
exhaust components received various tones of Agama metalloid compounds.
g) Decals are quite hard even after the application of softening
solutions, Agama in this case. The "brute" force of Hypersol helped in
the end, but the decals still remained a bit hard like sheet metal, and
even cracked in some cases [the shark silhouette on the wing line].
With a little patience and skill, you can use this kit and accessories
to build yourself a very decent model of a highly interesting fighter Su-27.